Saturday, August 30, 2008

"Ironman!"

 

Bob on the "Ironman Traverse" (v4) at Bishop's Buttermilk Boulders.

Yumi looking on.

A classic problem. Really long, really subtle, really shoddy feet, and really pumpy. Really recommended.
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Alex gets his...

 

Alex tops out on the great texture of the Druid Stones...

Unknown problem, v3?
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Splendid Smith Rock

 


Oh what a sight to see.

Imagine this at sunrise?

View from Asterik's Pass back to the front o' the park and downwards on the Metolius "River". Pheonix, Morning Glory, Cocaine Gully and Agro Gully all on the left.

Barrel of laughs...

 

Apparently somebody did something stupid because all the onlookers are laughing...

Mark, Tim, and Wolfgang all looking on(the nearest being the Wolfgang of Smith Rock fame). This 14 year old kid has done many of the hard 12s at Smith and knows the guide book front-to-back and back-to-front by heart.

Once when his dad Tim said "this route is such-and-such and it's 5.10b and FA was by Joe Dirtbag in 1994" Wolfgang immediately corrected him. Tim called Wolfgang out and said if he was wrong, he'd buy Wolfgang a pair of climbing shoes. A week later Wolfgang had a new pair of $150 climbing shoes. GNEISS
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Double-take...

 

Scott double-checking his footwork before making the next move on "Masterpiece Theatre", a ubiquitous route on this blog.
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Masterpiece

 

Black and white shot of the Ozone favorite "Masterpiece Theatre" which clocks in at 5.11b.

Quite a hard route at the beginning, it then tapers off to a nice arete stocked full of 10c/d crimps.

The punch comes at the beginning when you least want it--like a tequila shot on your 21st birthday, it's a rude awakening and the worst thing you'll do all night...
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Hey what's that?

 

It's not polite to point. Bob on a 10a/b at Smith's North End. Quite a tricky little route actually, but really fun and a great arete up top.
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Up, up and away!

 


It's junior bird man! Grayson leading at Smith on the Mesa Verde Wall. First outdoor lead for Grayson. Nice....
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Wednesday, August 06, 2008

Scott on the hot seat

 

Scott just before the crux moves on Masterpiece Theatre 5.11b at Ozone outside Camas, WA.

A really great route rudely interrupted by a v4/5 boulder problem at draws 3 and 4. Many capable climbers pitch there.

Bob
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End of the Masterpiece

 

Here I am grabbing the first jug of the many at the end of Masterpiece Theatre 5.11b.

After this its around the right corner, follow some nice rails and clip the chains.

Bob
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Chicken Clip!

 

Yes, I am chicken clipping.

But it's a really big jug mind you.

I never get an easy break from you all.
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Done.

 

Done with the business on Masterpiece Theatre 11b at Ozone outside of Camas, WA, I decide to take a short rest and chalk up before getting pumped.

Bob
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Masterful!

 

Scott making clip 9 of 11 on Masterpiece Theatre 5.11b at Ozone outside of Camas, WA.

A really thuggy route down low but it takes a really great arete to the top and it can be quite scenic but no more than 10c.
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Outta this world!

 

Grayson leading Kosmos 5.10a at Smith Rock's Mesa Verde buttress.

This was one of Grayson's finer moments this weekend -- an on sight of a climb not quite Grayson's style. Nice work Gray, real "gneiss" work.

Bob
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Tuesday, August 05, 2008

"This is Red 5; I'm going in"

 

The scramble up to and across Asteriks Pass and into North Smith and Mesa Verde.

Watch your step, rattle snakes like these baking stones....
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Go figure...

 

On all the climbing trips and with all my climbing friends, there have always been two, any three things;


1.) Climbing


2.) Beer


3.) An obligatory Star Wars prop or diatribe.



Smith July 2008 had all three in one photo... so much for moderation.
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Here comes the whip!

 


Almost lost it here and took the whip on Bloodshot 5.11c at Smith Rock.

An awesome route that has pretty much every kind of movement and style throughout it's 90 feet. Crimps, jugs, pockets, slopers, pinches; static, dynamic, drop-knees, heels -- just too much to describe. An awesome route, well worth the effort, drive, and puckering.

Bob
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Smith Rock!

 


Had an awesome weekend at Smith Rock State Park with Alex and some other friends. Here I am on a 5.11c in the upper, shaded section of Cocaine Gully. The Metolius River is below us.

An awesome route. An awesome weekend.
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