Mt. St. Helens

After spending time in Portland with Bob and Shauna for Thanksgiving, Jenn and I decided to stop by Mt. St. Helens in order to walk off the turkey and large quantity of booze the night before. We took a trail around the visitor's center since driving up to one of the look out/ridge is now closed for Winter and roads are covered in snow. (But you can still climb Mt. St. Helens in the winter via snowshoes if you so desire.) I have talked Jenn into doing Mt. St. Helens in late Spring when the roads opens back up. Anyone else interested? It's only ~8500ft after Helen blew it's top in 1980. Depending on cardiovascular shape they say roundtrip time is 7hrs - 12 hrs.

Olympic NPS

Jenn and I went to the Olympic National Park during the 2nd weekend in October. It's about 2 1/2 hours west of Seattle but you can catch and load your car on the ferry and get there within 1 hour. We loved it out there and would like to camp in the backcountry/hike up Mt. Olympus. Although this isn't per se climbing related, the scenery is breath taking. All the pictures below came from the Olympic NPS. It's hard to believe that within the park, the terrain and climate can be so varied/diverse.



Hurricane Ridge and a view of the Olympic Mts.



Hoh Rain Forrest. Only 1 of 10 in the world terms of climate and vegetation. It rains 300+ days/year. I believe from the visitor center, only Denali beats it out in terms of the amount of rainfall/year and rainy days at 330+.



Where are the ewoks?



Ruby Beach - One of the few WA beaches that allow dogs.







One ear Molly on guard duty.

More Leavenworth pics

Top of the ridge where we camped.



Where Molly, my dog almost fell off the cliff.

Beg the question

So, this latest splurg of picture posting has led me to one conclusion:
we are all itching to climb again, and, given the time of year, SOON.

So what's the spring/summer plan? Where's the preferred destination? What's the preferred climate and rock we want to tackle this time around?

Are we looking for some variety? For instance, do we want to plan a trip that includes bouldering, sport, top-roping and trad climbing? Or, do we just need a change of venue and rock-type? Say, granite over sandstone or cracks and crimps over slopers and smears?

Come on folks! I need feedback!

I for one think that a spring trip in Joshua Tree is boding all of us for all our needs--trad, sport, bouldering, and drinking in San Diego.

But, I could be persuaded to put off my climbing fix until summer when Leavenworth, Smith, and Squamish all become prime climbing destinations. That would entail lotsa driving, but also, lotsa variety and lotsa scenery. After all, Joshua Tree's scenery gets a little boring a little fast.

So, what's it gonna be?
1.) Spring--Joshua Tree for bouldering, sport, and trad.
2.) Late Spring, early Summer--Leavenworth and Squamish for bouldering, sport, and perhaps some trad.
3.) Or someplace I neglect to consider, such as Salt Lake City and Joe's Valley / Triassic / Little Cottonwood Canyon?

Speak up or be spoken for!

Turtle Power!

Charles fighting this mutant turtle at night.

A great, easy top-out but a good wrestling match from left-to-right on this boulder. Nice and squeezy!

Long Legs!

Look at those long legs!

Mark on "Bombadil" (v0).

Tom What?

Mark nearing the top on "Bombadil" (v0).

A Horse Pens "moderate" opposite "Spirit" and "the Stranger".

It is an easy climb, but it still doesn't fit within expectations for a v0!

Crimpy and blocky!

Duff Man!

Mark's triumphant top-out cheer of the trip was "DUFF MAN!"

Here he is re-living his Simpson's cameo appearance atop Bombadil (v1).

Stare down!

Bradford stares down the ferocious predator "Hammer Head" (v5).

See Bradford's progress in the subsequent photos.

Unfortunately, Bob tried to rally at the 11th hour--literally. We'd already done 4 days of climbing, it was 11am and we were all due to depart at 12 noon. Also, we'd already climbed for 3 hours that morning.

Mark and I politefully declined to participate... frankly, I haven't been the same since that trip. My shoulders, elbows, and tendons all seem to have filed a grievance with my governing body...

Bob, I salute you. This display of bravery truly deserves the Medal of Honor.

Careful!

Bradford learning more about his latest nemesis, the "Hammer Head" (v5).

A real unique climb to Horse Pens. It is fairly sequency, like much of Horse Pens, but it is steep and crimpy. The top-out is fairly off-balance too and it requires some real power at the end to "seal the deal".

An instant classic, this line is a must-see and a must-do.

Bight down!

Bradford sees the incut and opts to take a bite out of this "Hammer Head" (v5).

Pulling out the stops!

Bradford fighting for his life on "Hammer Head" (v5).

Alas, Bradford tries one last valiant toe hook to try and conquer the beast.

Shark Bate

Bradford fighting the man-eater "Hammer Head" (v5).

At the climax of our trip, when everyone was feeling wickedly sore, skinless, and solemn, Bradford produced a can of whoop-ass and tried to trap this predator.

Alas, Bob came up short-handed.

But I'm 100% sure they'll both sign-on for the sequel.

Tag!

One of Tumwater Canyon's better known climbing areas, this picnic area is speckled with boulders of various styles, sizes, and "motifs".

This particular boulder hosts a distinctive grafitti amidst its many nice moderates.

A great pair of v3 campus climbs starts mid-left at a reach high rail.

Jump, crimp, campus, campus, heel hook, un-heel hook, campus and then put your foot on for the top-out.

Simple, easy, and fun.

Tumwater Canyon, WA

Behold the mighty and gorgeous Tumwater Canoyon, WA.

This is the lesser of two canyons that merge to form the river valley which hosts Leavenworth, WA. Leavenworth is a living, breathing replica of a German/Bavarian village--repleat with ales, lagers, brats, knocks, and leiderhosen.

Though there is certainly more rock in Icicle Creek Canyon, there is undoubtedly much unexplored and unclimbed rock in both canyons.

I highly recommend it.

Go for the bouldering, stay for the beer.

A loss for sure...

This guy and his friends were in the Millipede area for 3 consecutive days.

And by Millipede area I mean, Millipede or Bum Boy. That's all they tried for three days.

In between morning, afternoon, and night sessions, they could be found drinking in their campsite and generally giving fraternities a bad reputation.

I sweare I saw him try Millipede over 20 times--first hand.

Well Golly! Look at that Ma!

A local, and judging this based upon his Southern dialect and grammer, showing us how big it really is.

In the background, you'll see, from left to right, Bum Boy, Centerpede, and Millipede.

These are local classics. And by classic I mean, everybody tries them.

Once. Maybe twice. And after the second attempt most people curse and say "what the hell is going on with me today".

But, never fear. It isn't you.

Bum Boy (V3) is not a v3. Centerpede (v4) is not a v4. Nor is Millipede a v5. They are all sandbagged climbs. Classic, but sandbagged.

Big Butt!

Bradford trying to wrestle the big bulbous slopers of "Bum Boy" with his tinny--yet strong--hands.

Look at that focus and determination, he must be pissed at this climb!

Mark finds his bum.

Mark finally finds his bum. "Bum Boy" that is (v3?!?!?).

Two years ago I climbed this thing at night and found it remarkably easier than during the day. On this trip, Mark experienced the same sensation--after much ado.

At one point, I took 30 photos of Mark--on one single 15 minute attempt.

Resulting from his tenacity, Mark triumphed over the "Bum Boy".

Groovin'

Charles starting out on the "Water Groove" (v2).

Climbing this thing is ridiculous. It is purely a water wash where the sandstone constantly erodes with every year. Erego, every year I get on it, it gets harder. This year, I discovered the foot I used to use is no longer helpful to me and I can barely get my ass off the ground.

The moral of the story boys and girls--I suck.

Good work Charles.

Dope!

Bradford topping out "Dope" (v2) after night fall.

A great top-out and a great climb to do at night.