Feature article in Climbing...

Horse Pens 40 featured in latest issue of Climbing

The latest issue of Climbing is a feature "dedicated" to bouldering as the publisher would have you believe. I paged through it, not much to speak of except some nice pics and an interview with Frederick Nicole.

There is an upside to this issue however, or for many of us a downside, in that it highlights some of the untouched and unclimbed goodness of southern boulders.

Adam Henry actually penned the article, which was well written--Thoreau re-incarnated perhaps?--and he of course gave quite a history of Southeastern bouldering. He also theorized that Southern bouldering was the butt of many jokes and he wished it to stay that way; less visitors means more climbing for southerners to paraphraze Henry. But, he doesn't see this lasting too much longer with the Triple Crown.

Coincidentally, as fun as it may be, the Triple Crown is unexpectedly well-known and popular. Some out here venture that it will soon eclipse the Pheonix Bouldering Contest as the biggest comp in the country. With its rising popularity more climbers will continually come to these areas, which is expected, unavoidable, and good for the Schultzes.

Check it out, there are some cool photos and you can henceforth brag to your climbing friends that "I've been there, I've done that."

The Circuit Tour, feat. Orange Block

Slab climbers are welcome! So long as they work up into the headwall overhang!

For the new kids on the block, there are some vertical walls on the back of the Orange Block--opposite the 45. Such climbs may be termed "slabby".

If by slabby you mean a gentle hike up slopers followed immediately by a steep throw to the top above a rather large fall. Padless of course...

The Mighty Stalagtite!

The "Asteroid" as it is known, is the third thing one sees after they enter the club.

First, you see an orange block with a 90 degree roof; second, a small square block with a slide down it, termed the warm-up block; and third, this massively hanging stalagtite.

After seeing this, most people forget about the first and second things. Erego, the gravity inducing name, "Asteroid".

Here, everyone waits eagerly for the dyno comp on Opening weekend. The fella in the white shirt, Pete, won the comp for all intents and purposes. He landed all the dynos save 2, which were pure sickness. Though I could be mistaken; I heard whispers of a tie late in the evening.

In the background stands the long Green Block, who's back-side houses nasty v7s and v8s the likes of which are truly tasty. I always liked the color green.

The Black Block

Excellent for topping out, this boulder also sports the namesake of the club: a grand ole circuit of the boulder.

Every boulder sports a circuit, this one just seems down-right mean. After topping out the boulder one must down-climb the other side to resume their circuit.

Some more wicked hard stuff on this block, though not as scary due to its stumpy nature. But, all the top-outs seem really Horse-Pennish.

The 45 Wall

The 45.

Slopers, fat pinches, sharp-ass crimpers, jugs, throws, dynos--this wall has it all.

There are an abundancy of slopers here too. Including an awesome orange pinch/sloper standing vertically about mid face in the middle of an uber-fun v8.

The falls from on high inspire the most amazing brown pants.

The Wave...

The Wave Boulder.

Long, sometimes steep, almost 15 feet tall, and caked in slopers.

There are some heinous traverses here; including a v8 traverse that I love and a v9 traverse which has inspired a fellow to quit bouldering and begin shoulder rehab.

The only down-side is that so few people climb on this boulder--due in part to its difficulty--that the owners set up a slack line below it rather regularly. On more than one occasion, Pete and I have nearly castrated ourselves on the slackline or bailed in fear of castration.

Um... Pods.

Pods on the right, the black block behind (which you may top out and take the ladder down), and the wave in the background.

270 boulder problems+ in the gym last I heard...

What a Loser!

Bob throwing for the jug on HP40's "Lou-Ser," a one-move wonder at the Road Side Rocks.

In October, Bob finally managed to do all the moves for this problem, especially the hard start. Now all he has to do is return to link them all! 

A New Day at HP40

Sarah, Bob B., Alex, and Bob D all warm up after a long rainy night at HP40.

Fortunately for us, and for all HP40 climbers, whenever it rains the wind blow drys the rocks afterwards. You can climb as early as an hour afterwards with a strong enough wind.

We didn't take many group shots, shame on us. 

Little Red Arrow?

Mark,
I think that this is Little Red Arrow.

Isn't it? There aren't many heel hooks in HP40 so this has to be it.

I liked the shot.

For some reason, I'm finding a lot of unpublished shots from our trips of late... 

Big Back Breaker!

Alex Uy setting his sights on the saving holds!

This is a great shot of "Cricifix" because it sums up the climb in this very shot.

Small face holds, palm the ceiling, arch your back, press with your feet, and work your way out to the jugs almost 4.5 feet away!

OY! My back hurts just looking at Alex this time! 

Naughty Boy Scouts...

Only You Can Prevent Forest Fires!

Here, Brian, Jeremy A., Bob, and Alex are hiking down to Linville Gorge to climb the "Daddy" and the "Mummy" for the day.

As you can see, Linville Gorge Wilderness Area was hit hard by a forest fire back in 1999. Supposedly the fire began with a lightning strike, but given the amount of Boy Scouts who use the area, the Forest Service hasn't ruled out a poorly-managed fire.

When I climbed in the area back in 2000 with my then-partner Nic Chia, we were appauled by the amount of dead wood. Here, in 2003/2004, it's still amazing how much burnt growth still stands. 

Brian P on lead, running it out?!?!

If I'm not mistaken, Brian is leading the "North Ridge" at Table Rock and he hasn't placed a single piece!

Actually, Brian is following Alex up the route and I'm the tag along at the end.

Still, a great photo of Brian.

Figure Four!

Sarah attempts a Figure Four!

Wow, that's awesome. I never noticed.

Technically, she should wrap her left leg over her right arm to complete the figure four, but, she's pretty damned close. I'll give her credit. 

Sweet shot of Super Mario...

I love the texture of this hold in this shot.

Of all the v4s that we've done as a group in our climbing days, I would swear that this v4--sorry Mark, not Braun--is the best v4 of the group.

Just look at that hold!

Man, I can't wait to visit Chattanooga again! Bob 

Stranded climber on Table Rock's South Face. I think this climb is called "Morning Light," but I know for certain it is a 5.10 that this girl was stuck on for almost 2 hours. Bob, Kathryn, and Mary-Beth listened to this girl shout for help for almost 30 minutes after she gave up on the small, crack-lined roof above her. Fortunately, her leader finally rigged a hauling system up top before Bob arrived to try and help.  

Kelly D on the top five burly feet of "Seven Eleven/Bird of Prey" at Franlkin, WV. This climb is very aptly titled: it is 30 feet of 5.7 and 5-10 feet of 5.11, bringing the total rating to a 5.11c/d if I recall correctly. The vertical slopers and pinches in the last section feel like a v5/6 climb after doing a long, lazy v0-. The climb is worth it just for the last 5-10 feet. Totally worth it. As Arnold Gubernator would say, "Come on! Do it! Kill me now!"

Is that Alex or Kelly?

Kelly D., our "Flyin' Hawaiian" finishes "Super Mario" in Alex-fashion: flashing his pearly whites. Kelly had a very successful day at LRC, as opposed to most of us, but tore up a bunch of much-needed skin before we arrived at our highly-anticipated and flesh-thrashing destination, HP40.

Kelly attempting a v6 variant of "Super Mario" as Bob puts together the sequence on "Red House," an LRC classic v7 that Bob D did back in Jan 05.  

Requisite picture of Brian

A requirement of my posting-sprees: one picture of Brian. There, I'm done now. "Super Mario," v4, 3 star classic at Little Rock City, Tennessee.

Brian here refuses to spot Bradford after he sails the crux. "I'll have no blind leading the blind!" Brian exclaims. "Super Mario" v4. 

Mid-mantle at LRC, TN. Mark here is practicing the skill he'll need most at HP40, though he doesn't quite know it yet. It would take him 5, 6 months to fully prepare for "routine top-outs" at HP40.  

Pavlov's Smiling Dog...

Bob D. on "Steamroller" at LRC, TN. Alex, as always, steals the shot with his pearly whites which surprisingly match the color of Bob's arms, legs, and belly. I think Alex was conditioned by Pavlov to smile whenever he sees a camera.

Sarah D. on lead at Foster Falls, TN. This was the end of her momentous 5.9 lead which made Alex go, "aw nuts." 

Brian topping out Turtle Rock, which problem I dunno! On our latest trip to HP40, Charles, Bradford, Mark and I came to Turtle Rock at night and worked on some variances of the climbs here. One such variance we dubbed "Turtle Around the World," which involved a traverse around the turtle head from left to right, with your feet always underneath the turtle's chin. Very fun, probably v4/5? 

Another look at "Moma's" while Alex prepares to get slapped by his Moma.