Lucy's Mouth!

 


We happened across this classic Bishop v3 (meaning it's pretty darned hard!) at the Buttermilks on our last day. A fantastic climb that starts at the lower left hand side of the cavernous hueco ascends the left lip and then works the feet and the upper lip rightwards towards a grainy three finger pocket that you usually slip out of. A great climb, but like Cricifix at Horse Pens, a real back wrecker if you're not careful. 

Iron Man!

 


Bob here making his way through the "Iron Man" traverse at the Buttermilks. A great line, almost surreal considering how clean the line is. Much of the rest of the Buttermilks was gravely different; lots of big moves to crimps and bad ones at that. This climb was more in line with our Eastern sloper heritage. And a fine top-out too... 

Lost Rocks goes Green!

Lost Rocks California, home to slick, slopey, sick basalt rock and seaside surfing. In August and September, Alex, Bob B, Yumi and myself headed down to Lost Rocks for two days to climb there and found this blunt, slopey green arete.
A great feature that can be campused or heal-hooked, it comes highly recommended. But beware, the crux is at the end and involves a large shouldery move, much like an iron cross.
Enjoy...